speed 8 (under high) whipping between each addition. The whites
should be creamy white, fluffy and firm but not super stiff. When you
dip your finger in then out (the elf hat test, see page 142), the mix on
your finger should hold a super firm, erect peak. Reduce the speed to
2 (above low) for 10 seconds right at the end.

Super stiff meringue will make your angel food cake crack open like a hell
mouth. Adding the whites in larger amounts (rather than super stiff-making
spoonfuls) controls the stiffness.

Remove the bowl from the mixer and scrape half the meringue into a
wide mixing bowl. Sift all the dry ingredients on top. The first folds will
be a bit awkward, but keep folding with gentle intent until the mix has
loosened a little and the flour is half incorporated. Then gently fold in
half the remaining meringue until it is almost fully incorporated. Then
fold the remainder in until no white streaks remain. Start heating the
honey/water mix to steamy hot before you do your last few folds.

Pour the hot honey/water mix around the edge of the batter and fold
until the liquid has become one with the batter. Do a final and thorough
fold with a flexible plastic spatula. Scrape the mix into the ungreased
angel food cake tin. It will sit about 5 cm (2 in) from the top of the tin,
just in line with the rivets on the side. Wipe any batter smears from the
side of the tin or the centre tube, as they can impede the rise.

The warm honey mix will accelerate the baking and set all the lovely airy
meringue faster. The heat also loosens the honey, so it doesn’t cool and
seize back into a heavy syrup when it meets the batter.

Bake for 45–55 minutes. The cake will dome a little then flatten –
a sure sign it is ready. Set up a cooling rack with a light spray of
cooking oil spray. Bake until the top crust feels dry and looks puffed
and cracked around the edges. Don’t worry about the cracks, the top
will become our bottom.

Remove the baked cake from the oven and immediately invert onto
the rack, balancing the tin on its inner tube. Carefully place the wire
rack over your sink for more cooling airflow (or set it on top of four
equal-sized tins). Leave it inverted for 2 hours, until the base of the
tin is completely cool to the touch.

Because angel food cakes have less fat (no oil or yolks) than a chiffon cake,
they’re less prone to fall out of the tin when baked.

While the cake cools, make and bake the Crisp rye streusel and, while
still warm, crush to a flossy crumb in a mortar and pestle. Place the
crumb in a wide shallow tray and set aside.
continued …